Xbox 360 Xplorer – Revival Kit

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Difficulty

Easy

Steps

12

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Xbox 360 Xplorer - Revival Kit

Note on text/pictures: This guide uses color coded steps and images. For example, instructions that have a green dot next to them will relate to green shapes in the accompanying images (usually an arrow). Same for all other colors.

Note on Component Bag: You will have leftover components after completing the mod; this is normal.

Tools Needed/Parts Included

Tools needed (not included):

  • Screwdriver with PH1, T10, and T6 bits

Purchase Link:  Screwdriver + Bits

Parts Included with the kit:

  • Revival Kit Zeroboard (Strumboard)
  • Revival Kit Fretboard
  • 3D Printed Translucent Strumbar (different for each model)
  • 5x 3D Printed Translucent Frets
  • Xplorer Breakout Board
  • Detachable USB-C Board and bracket
  • New Whammy Assembly
  • Switch Puller
  • Color Coded Wires and Auth Cable (different for each model)
  • 10 foot nylon braided USB-A to USB-C cable

Differences between Xplorer models

There are three different models of the Xplorer controller:

95055
95065
95157.805

Identifying your model and the differences between them will help you determine which screw bits you need, and if your frets will need shims later. (These are included in the kit)

  • Take a look at the back of the body of your Xplorer. You will see a sticker with the text "Model No:" on it, followed by the model number.
  • Model number 95055 and 95605 have a foot pedal port near the Xbox headset port. You can use this as an alternate way to feed the USB-C cable out of the guitar later if you want.
  • Model number 95157.805 has this foot pedal port next to the USB cable, so it is advised to just re-use the USB cable cutout in the shell instead of the foot pedal port cutout for the new USB-C cable (installed later in the guide).

Opening the Controller

Flip the controller over so the Red Octane sticker on the back of the body is visible. The type of screws used on the outside shells will depend on the model of your guitar:
95055/95605 – PH1 Screws
95157.805 – T10 Screws

  • Rear body shell - 11x screws
  • The screw marked in red is longer than the others; remember this for when you put everything back together!
  • Rear neck shell - 5x screws
  • Ensure that all of the screws are removed, and open the shell.

Once the shell begins to open, slowly move down the rest of the shell until it pops open completely.

  • Repeat this process for the neck, using the opening at the neck connector and working towards the headstock.

If the shell seems to gets stuck, DO NOT FORCE IT. Check to make sure you have removed all of the screws before continuing to pry the shell.

Removing stock boards

Now its time to remove the stock boards that will be replaced with the new boards included in the kit.

  • Remove the 4x screws on the stock Strumboard.
  • Remove the 2x screws on the RJ11 port. (This board will not be replaced, so if you'd like to leave it in so there is no open hole in the shell after completing the kit, leave this board installed and cut the wires coming from it instead)
  • Remove the 4x screws on the stock input board.
  • Remove the 2x screws on the headset port.
  • Remove the 2x screws from the stock Fretboard.

Once all the screws are removed, remove all of the stock boards along with the whammy assembly from the shell.

Prepping the new Strumbar

Before installing the new Strumboard, we need to transfer some pieces of the stock strumbar over to the new one:

  • Remove the metal strumrod by pulling it out of the stock strumbar.
  • Remove both of the circular spacers on each end of the strumbar. You can easily remove these by pushing them out with your finger from the inside of the strumbar.
  • Remove the four rubber pads on each foot of the strumbar. These can be lifted straight out of their slots.
  • Make sure you have all the stock parts you need:
    1x Metal strumrod
    2x Circular spacers
    4x Rubber pads
  • Put all of these parts into the new strumbar, in the same places as the stock strumbar. Insert the rubber pads into the slots in each of the feet of the new strumbar, insert the spacers into the circular cutouts on each end of the new strumbar, then insert the metal strumrod through the spacers.
  • If the strumbar slides up and down the metal rod too much for your liking, then you can install the wide, thin spacers included on the end of the component piece to fill in the gap. Place these under the stock strumbar spacers. You may need to stack multiple on each end to get your desired tolerance!

Installing the Revival Kit Zeroboard (Strumboard)

With the stock boards removed, we can now install the new strumbar and strumboard.

  • Remove the black brackets on either side of the stock strumbar.
  • Slide the metal rod into the new strumbar. Then place the new stumbar into the slot that the stock strumbar sat in. Put the black brackets back into place.
  • Separate the small strum keycaps from the component piece and slot them into the stems of the strum switches. This is needed for a tighter strumbar feel.
  • Place the new strumboard on top of the black brackets, then screw in the new strumboard. If the stock screws are stripped, you can use the replacement Long Screws provided in the kit. Make sure each screw is snug, but do not over-tighten them, or you may scratch away the soldermask of the new strumboard!

Installing the Xplorer Breakout board

Now its time to install the Xplorer Breakout board.

Gather the Xplorer Breakout board (labelled 1X) and 4 Long Screws. Stock screws can also be used if they are not stripped.

  • Make sure the rubber dome pads are still in place, then install the Xplorer Breakout board where the stock input board used to sit. Use the stock screws or included Long Screws to secure it.
  • Connect three red wires into the three white connectors on the Xplorer Breakout board.
  • Connect the other ends of the red wires into their matching connectors on the Zeroboard. Double check the labels on each board and make sure the wires are going to matching connectors!

Installing the Revival Kit Fretboard

Now its time to install the new RGB Mechanical Fretboard.

Gather the Revival Kit Fretboard, Translucent Frets, 3 White Wires, and 2 Long Screws.

  • Connect one end of each of the White Wires into the RGB, FRET1, and FRET2 connectors on the Fretboard. Connect the other end of each White Wire to the corresponding RGB, FRET1, and FRET2 connectors on the Strumboard. I recommend doing one wire at a time to prevent mixing them up.
  • Remove the stock frets and replace them with the translucent 3D printed frets provided in the kit. These frets must be used even if you do not want to use LEDs; the stock frets will not fit with the new Fretboard.
    Model 95065 Xplorers will need to use the included fret shims to fit properly. Other models will not need shims.
  • Place the new Fretboard onto the screw standoffs that the stock fretboard used to sit on (the red switches and white connectors should be facing down towards the Translucent Frets. Use 2 Long Screws to secure the new Fretboard.
  • Route the White Wires through the neck and down through the body. Make sure they are clear of any screw standoffs so they are not damaged when reinstalling the neck shell.

Installing the new Whammy assembly

Installing the new whammy assembly is up next. Follow the below video guide on installing the new whammy assembly:

  • After installation, connect the black wire to the WHAMMY connector on the Zeroboard.

Installing the Authentication cable and USB-C port

Installing the Authentication cable is quick and easy.

  • Gather the Auth/USB-C bracket and break it apart into two separate pieces.
  • Slot the bottom bracket into the opening that the headset port used to sit in (use the picture for reference on the orientation of the bracket.
  • Gather the Authentication cable and slot it vertically into the wide slot of the bracket. The strain relief should slot between the two existing screw standoffs on the body shell to hold it in place.
  • Gather the yellow cable and the USB-C port board. Plug the yellow wire into the connector on the USB-C port board.
  • Slot the USB-C port into the bracket in the orientation as shown in the picture. Wrap the yellow wire around the nearest standoff and route it towards the Zeroboard.
  • Slot the top bracket into place, making sure everything is lined up correctly.
  • Plug the yellow wire into the USB connector on the Zeroboard, then connect the Authentication cable into the AUTH connector on the Zeroboard.

Finishing Up

You’re almost done! Once you have ensured that each input works and that the tilt angle is where you want it to be, we can close up the guitar!

Make sure none of the wires are in the way of any plastic standoffs, as this will damage them when closing the shell. I would recommend taping down the wires to ensure they are out of the way and not draped across any of the boards.

With the front body and neck shell facing down, put the rear neck shell onto the front neck shell. You will need to apply pressure to close the shell. If you feel like part of the shell will not snap into place, open it up and double check that there is nothing blocking the standoffs. Repeat for the body shell.

After both sides are clamped down, install all of the screws you removed earlier:

  • Rear neck shell - 5x screws
  • Body shell - 11x screws (remember the position of the longer screw, highlighted in red)

Start playing!

Experiencing any issues? Reach out to me: support@RetroCultMods.com