Xbox/Playstation Les Paul – Revival Kit
Xbox/Playstation Paul - Revival Kit
Note on text/pictures: This guide uses color coded steps and images. For example, instructions that have a green dot next to them will relate to green shapes in the accompanying images (usually an arrow). Same for all other colors.
Note on Component Bag: You will have leftover components after completing the mod; this is normal.
Tools Needed/Parts Included
Tools needed (not included):
- Screwdriver with PH1, T10, and T6 bits
Purchase Link: Screwdriver + Bits
Parts Included with the kit:
- Revival Kit Zeroboard (Strumboard)
- Revival Kit Fretboard
- 3D Printed Translucent Strumbar (different for each model)
- 5x 3D Printed Translucent Frets
- Replacement boards (different for each model)
- Detachable USB-C Board and components
- New Whammy Assembly
- Switch Puller
- Color Coded Wires and Auth Cable (different for each model)
- 10 foot nylon braided USB-A to USB-C cable
Opening the Controller
Flip the controller over so the Guitar Hero logo on the back of the body is visible. Remove the neck from the body. Remove the following screws:
- Rear body shell - 9x T10 screws (remember the one under the Warranty sticker)T10
- Rear neck shell - 10x T10 screws
- Front body shell (near neck) - 4x PH1 screws
- Ensure that all of the screws are removed, and open the shell. I recommend starting to pry gently from the opening near the neck connector.
Once the shell begins to open, slowly move down the rest of the shell until it pops open completely.
- Repeat this process for the neck, using the opening at the neck connector and working towards the headstock.
If the shell seems to gets stuck, DO NOT FORCE IT. Check to make sure you have removed all of the screws before continuing to pry the shell.
Removing stock boards
Now its time to remove the stock boards that will be replaced with the new boards included in the kit. Xbox models will use T6 screws, and Playstation models will use PH1 screws.
- Remove the 2 PH1/T6 screws on the RJ11 (foot pedal) port.
- Remove the 4 PH1/T6 screws on the stock strumboard.
- Remove the 2 PH1/T6 screws on the stock fretboard.
- Remove the 2 PH1/T6 screws the dpad board.
- Remove the 2 PH1/T6 screws on the start/select board.
Remove all of the stock boards and whammy assembly from the shell. When removing the whammy assembly, keep you finger over the spring to prevent the spring from detaching.
If it does detach, don’t worry, we will be swapping it over to the new whammy assembly soon!
Installing the Revival Kit Zeroboard (Strumboard)
With the stock boards removed, we can now install the new strumbar and strumboard.
- Remove the black brackets on either side of the stock strumbar.
- Remove the metal rod from the stock strumbar. If the strumbar is dirty, take time to clean it with a paper towel or cloth.
- Slot both feet of the new strumbar onto the main body of the new strumbar.
- Slide the metal rod into the new strumbar. Then place the new stumbar into the slot that the stock strumbar sat in. Put the black brackets back into place. Make sure the strumbar moves freely; if there is a lot of friction when moving the strumbar back and forth, you need to take the metal rod out and clean it.
- Place the new strumboard on top of the black brackets, then screw in the new strumboard. If the stock screws are stripped, you can use the replacement Long Screws provided in the kit. Make sure each screw is snug, but do not over-tighten them, or you may scratch away the soldermask of the new strumboard!
Installing the new Start/Select board
Now its time to install our new Start/Select board.
Gather the new Start/Select board (labelled 1B) and 2 Long Screws.
- Make sure the rubber dome pads are still attached to the Start and Select buttons. Secure the new Start/Select board in the place of the stock Start/Select board, positioned with the white connector closest to the Strumboard. The original screws or replacement screws can be used.
- Connect one end of the Red Wire into the white connector on the new Start/Select board.
- Connect the other end of the Red Wire into the white ST/SEL connector on the Strumboard.
Installing the new Dpad board
Next we move onto the of install our new Dpad board.
Gather the new Dpad board (labelled 2A), the small Joystick shim, and 3 Long Screws.
- Use the stock or replacement screws to secure the new Dpad board where the stock board previous sat. Make sure that the rubber dome pads for the directional inputs and the guide button are still attached to the plastic buttons.
- Plug in a Red Wire into the DPAD1 connector and a Red Wire into the DPAD2 connector.
- Plug the other end of each Red Wire into their corresponding DPAD1 and DPAD2 connectors on the new Strumboard.
Installing the USB-C connector board
Next up is the USB-C connector board.
- Gather the USB-C board, bracket, and shroud. Gather 2 Short Screws and 2 Long Screws. For Xbox models, use the bracket with the X on it. For Playstations models, use the other bracket.
- Pre-install two short screws into the bracket from the bottom until they start to poke out of the other side.
- Line up the USB-C board into the top of the bracket, ensuring the screws go through the holes in the board. Push the shroud on top of the USB-C connector on the board.
- Finish screwing in the short screws from the bottom of the bracket. You will want to press the shroud down onto the connector while you finish installing the screws.
- Use two long screws to mount the assembled USB-C module where the RJ-11 port used to sit.
- Plug one end of the Yellow Cable into the white connector of the USB-C module.
- Plug the other end of the Yellow Cable into the white connector on the Strumboard labelled USB.
Installing the new Whammy assembly
Installing the new whammy assembly is up next.
- With the bottom of the body shell facing towards you, note which side of the whammy slot your stock whammy assembly sat on before you removed it. You can tell which side it was on even if it is removed by checking which side has a cylindrical or flat support piece near it. If your whammy slots have screws on them, remove them.
- Disassemble your stock whammy assembly, making sure to keep the spring holders and spring tensioned onto the stock whammy bar. Also gather the flat plastic piece that occupied the whammy slot opposite of the stock whammy assembly.
- Find the new whammy brackets. These are actually four pieces that can be snapped apart, two marked with an L, and two marked with an R. If your whammy assembly sat on the left side, you want the two pieces marked L. Otherwise use the two pieces marked R.
- Insert the slotted cylindrical component end of the Black Wire through the bottom whammy bracket piece (with the C shaped slot and circular cutout).
- Insert the slotted cylindrical component into the stock whammy bar. Note that it will only fit in a certain orientation thanks to the teeth of the stock whammy bar slot.
- Attach the flat plastic piece into the other side of the whammy bar. You will need to hold it all together with your hands while aligning it with the whammy slots on the guitar shell. When you have it all aligned, slide the new assembly in about halfway.
- Before completely inserting the assembly, insert the top new whammy bracket with the correct letter on top of the new bottom whammy bracket. The notch in the new top whammy bracket should sit in between the spring holders. You may need to rotate the whammy bar to align them. Once aligned, slide the entire assembly fully into the whammy slots. If your whammy slots had screws, reinstall those at this point.
- If you'd like to test the whammy bar with the shell open, make sure you put pressure onto the new whammy brackets while doing so, as they normally depend on the rear body shell for support. If you don't, the new top bracket may pop out and you will need to realign it.
- Plug the other end of the Black Wire into the white connector labelled WHAMMY on the Strumboard.
Installing the Revival Kit Fretboard
Now its time to install the new RGB Mechanical Fretboard.
Gather the Revival Kit Fretboard, Translucent Frets, 3 White Wires, and 2 Long Screws.
- Connect one end of each of the White Wires into the RGB, FRET1, and FRET2 connectors on the Fretboard. Connect the other end of each White Wire to the corresponding RGB, FRET1, and FRET2 connectors on the Strumboard. I recommend doing one wire at a time to prevent mixing them up.
- Remove the stock silicone pad and frets if they are still in the fret slots. Insert the new Translucent Frets into the fret slots.
- Place the new Fretboard onto the screw standoffs that the stock fretboard used to sit on (the red switches and white connectors should be facing down towards the Translucent Frets. Use 2 Long Screws to secure the new Fretboard.
- Route the White Wires through the neck and down through the body. Make sure they are clear of any screw standoffs so they are not damaged when reinstalling the neck shell.
Installing the Authentication cable
Installing the Authentication cable is quick and easy.
- Remove the two screws on the battery board, then remove the battery board with the two metal battery contacts.
- On the opposite body shell, find the two battery supports for the board we just removed. Press on one side of the support until it snaps off. Do this for both supports.
- Gather the Authentication cable.
- Route the Authentication cable through the slot that the Wii extension cable used to route through.
- Plug the white connector end of the Authentication cable into the white connector on the Strumboard labelled AUTH.
Finishing Up
You’re almost done!
Make sure none of the wires are in the way of any plastic standoffs, as this will damage them when closing the shell. I would recommend taping down the wires to ensure they are out of the way.
With the front body and neck shell facing down, put the rear neck shell onto the front neck shell. You will need to apply pressure to close the shell. If you feel like part of the shell will not snap into place, open it up and double check that there is nothing blocking the standoffs. Repeat for the body shell.
After both sides are clamped down, install all of the screws you removed earlier:
- 9 PH1/T10 screws for the neck.
Insert the neck shell into the body before screwing the body shell back together!
- 11 PH1/T10 screws for the body.
After everything is closed up, do not attempt to remove the neck from the body. If you think you may accidently do this in the future, I’d recommend putting some tape over the release lever on the back of the body to block it. Start playing!
Experiencing any issues? Reach out to me: support@RetroCultMods.com
