Wii World Tour – Revival Kit

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Difficulty

Easy

Steps

12

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Wii World Tour - Revival Kit

Note on text/pictures: This guide uses color coded steps and images. For example, instructions that have a green dot next to them will relate to green shapes in the accompanying images (usually an arrow). Same for all other colors.

Note on Component Bag: You will have leftover components after completing the mod; this is normal.

Tools Needed/Parts Included

Tools needed (not included):

  • Screwdriver with PH1 and T10 bits

Purchase Link:  Screwdriver + Bits 

Parts Included with the kit:

  • Revival Kit Zeroboard (Strumboard)
  • Revival Kit Fretboard
  • 3D Printed Translucent Strumbar (different for each model)
  • 5x 3D Printed Translucent Frets
  • Replacement boards (different for each model)
  • Detachable USB-C Board and components
  • New Whammy Assembly
  • Switch Puller
  • Color Coded Wires and Auth Cable (different for each model)
  • 10 foot nylon braided USB-A to USB-C cable

Opening the Controller

  • Move the faceplate latch to the unlocked position on the back of the body, then remove the faceplate by pulling upwards from the neck slot.
  • Front body shell - 11x T10 screws
  • Front body shell (neck) - 4x PH0 screws
  • Rear neck shell - 11x T10 screws
  • Ensure that all of the screws are removed, and open the shell. I recommend starting to pry gently from the opening near the neck connector.

Once the shell begins to open, slowly move down the rest of the shell until it pops open completely.

  • Repeat this process for the neck, using the opening at the neck connector and working towards the headstock.

If the shell seems to gets stuck, DO NOT FORCE IT. Check to make sure you have removed all of the screws before continuing to pry the shell.

Removing stock boards

Now its time to remove the stock boards that will be replaced with the new boards included in the kit; these will be PH1 screws.

  • Remove the screws on all of the stock boards. There are a total of 17 PH1 screws that need to be removed, for these stock boards:

    Strumboard
    Start/Select bracket
    Joystick board
    RJ11 board
    One screw for each wire management bracket
  • Remove the 1 PH1 screw holding down the fretboard in the neck. When you remove the fretboard, all of the connected boards need to come out as well.

Installing the Revival Kit Zeroboard (Strumboard)

With the stock boards removed, we can now install the new strumbar and strumboard.

  • Remove the PH1 screws from the strum brackets, then remove the strum brackets, strumbar, and springs from the shell.
  • Insert the strum pegs into the new strumbar.
  • Slot the stock strum brackets onto the strum pegs of the new strumbar on both sides.
  • Slide the new strumbar and strum brackets back onto the plastic standoffs they originally sat on. Use the original screws to secure the strum brackets, but do not overtighten them. The new strumbar should be able to rotate freely; if there is any friction, slightly loosen each strum bracket screw.
  • Place the new strumboard on top of the strum brackets, then screw in the new strumboard. If the stock screws are stripped, you can use the replacement Long Screws provided in the kit. Make sure each screw is snug, but do not over-tighten them, or you may scratch away the soldermask of the new strumboard!

Installing the new Start/Select board

Now its time to install our new Start/Select board.

Gather the new Start/Select board (labelled 1C).

  • Remove the silicone dome on the stock Start/Select board by pulling upwards on the silicone domes.
  • Position the dome on the side of the new Start/Select board (labelled 1C) with the gold pads. Do not worry about centering the silicone domes.
  • On the opposite side of the new Start/Select board, pinch the legs of the silicone dome and pull upward to secure them onto the new Start/Select board.
  • Secure the new Start/Select board in the place of the stock Start/Select board. Reinstall the Start/Select board bracket over the new board, using the 4 original screws.
  • Connect one end of the Red Wire into the white connector on the new Start/Select board.
  • Connect the other end of the Red Wire into the white ST/SEL connector on the Strumboard.

Installing the new Joystick board

Next we move onto the of install our new Joystick board.

Gather the new Joystick board (labelled 2C), the small Joystick shim, and 3 Long Screws.

  • Remove the Joystick cap from the stock Joystick board.
  • Find the small Joystick shim in your component bag, then slide it into the slot of the Joystick cap.
  • Slide the Joystick cap onto the Joystick of the new board (labelled 2C).
  • Secure the new Joystick board where the stock Joystick board previously was. You can use the provided screws if the stock screws are stripped.
  • Plug one end of the Green Wire into the white connector closest to the Strumboard.
  • Plug the other end of the Green wire into one of the white connectors labelled JOY on the Strumboard. I would recommend using the connector on the bottom of the board, as the wire routes nicely that way.

Installing the USB-C connector board

Next up is the USB-C connector board.

  • Gather the USB-C board, bracket (without the X on it), and shroud. Gather 2 Short Screws and 2 Long Screws.
  • Pre-install two short screws into the bracket from the bottom until they start to poke out of the other side.
  • Line up the USB-C board into the top of the bracket, ensuring the screws go through the holes in the board. Push the shroud on top of the USB-C connector on the board.
  • Finish screwing in the short screws from the bottom of the bracket. You will want to press the shroud down onto the connector while you finish installing the screws.
  • Use two long screws to mount the assembled USB-C module where the RJ-11 port used to sit.
  • Plug one end of the Yellow Cable into the white connector of the USB-C module.
  • Plug the other end of the Yellow Cable into the white connector on the Strumboard labelled USB.

Installing the new Whammy assembly

Installing the new whammy assembly is up next.

  • With the bottom of the body shell facing towards you, note which side of the whammy slot your stock whammy assembly sat on before you removed it. You can tell which side it was on even if it is removed by checking which side has a cylindrical or flat support piece near it. If your whammy slots have screws on them, remove them.
  • Disassemble your stock whammy assembly, making sure to keep the spring holders and spring tensioned onto the stock whammy bar. Also gather the flat plastic piece that occupied the whammy slot opposite of the stock whammy assembly.
  • Find the new whammy brackets. These are actually four pieces that can be snapped apart, two marked with an L, and two marked with an R. If your whammy assembly sat on the left side, you want the two pieces marked L. Otherwise use the two pieces marked R.
  • Insert the slotted cylindrical component end of the Black Wire through the bottom whammy bracket piece (with the C shaped slot and circular cutout).
  • Insert the slotted cylindrical component into the stock whammy bar. Note that it will only fit in a certain orientation thanks to the teeth of the stock whammy bar slot.
  • Attach the flat plastic piece into the other side of the whammy bar. You will need to hold it all together with your hands while aligning it with the whammy slots on the guitar shell. When you have it all aligned, slide the new assembly in about halfway.
  • Before completely inserting the assembly, insert the top new whammy bracket with the correct letter on top of the new bottom whammy bracket. The notch in the new top whammy bracket should sit in between the spring holders. You may need to rotate the whammy bar to align them. Once aligned, slide the entire assembly fully into the whammy slots. If your whammy slots had screws, reinstall those at this point.
  • If you'd like to test the whammy bar with the shell open, make sure you put pressure onto the new whammy brackets while doing so, as they normally depend on the rear body shell for support. If you don't, the new top bracket may pop out and you will need to realign it.
  • Plug the other end of the Black Wire into the white connector labelled WHAMMY on the Strumboard.

Installing the Revival Kit Fretboard

Now its time to install the new RGB Mechanical Fretboard.

Gather the Revival Kit Fretboard, Translucent Frets, 3 White Wires, and 1 Long Screw.

  • Connect one end of each of the White Wires into the RGB, FRET1, and FRET2 connectors on the Fretboard. Connect the other end of each White Wire to the corresponding RGB, FRET1, and FRET2 connectors on the Strumboard. I recommend doing one wire at a time to prevent mixing them up.
  • Remove the stock silicone pad and frets if they are still in the fret slots. Insert the new Translucent Frets into the fret slots.
  • Place the new Fretboard onto the screw standoffs that the stock fretboard used to sit on (the red switches and white connectors should be facing down towards the Translucent Frets. Use 2 Long Screws to secure the new Fretboard.
  • Route the White Wires through the neck and down through the body. Make sure they are clear of any screw standoffs so they are not damaged when reinstalling the neck shell. The WT/GH5 necks need to have their wires routed carefully!! WATCH THE BELOW VIDEO:

Installing the Authentication cable

Installing the Authentication cable is quick and easy.

  • Gather the Authentication cable.
  • Plug the white connector end of the Authentication cable into the white connector on the Strumboard labelled AUTH.
  • Route the Authentication cable through the slot that the Wii extension cable used to route through.

Finishing Up

You’re almost done! 

Make sure none of the wires are in the way of any plastic standoffs, as this will damage them when closing the shell. I would recommend taping down the wires to ensure they are out of the way.

With the front body and neck shell facing down, put the rear neck shell onto the front neck shell. If you followed the video for the neck shell wire routing, you will already have both neck shells together. You will need to apply pressure to close the shell. If you feel like part of the shell will not snap into place, open it up and double check that there is nothing blocking the standoffs. Repeat for the body shell.

After both sides are clamped down, install all of the screws you removed earlier:

  • 10 T10 screws for the neck. DO NOT install the screw at the lowest point on the neck shell.

Insert the neck shell into the body before screwing the body shell back together!

  • 11 T10 screws for the body.
  • The 4 screws near the base of the neck can be left out since the neck is no longer removable.

After everything is closed up, do not attempt to remove the neck from the body. If you think you may accidently do this in the future, I’d recommend putting some tape over the release lever on the back of the body to block it. Start playing!

Experiencing any issues? Reach out to me: support@RetroCultMods.com